Monthly Archives: October 2014

American Beauty: Virginia

This will be a shorter update from a library computer in Glasgow, Virginia- a state that is quickly supplanting Pennsylvania as my favorite on the trail. The footpath is mainly dirt and easy on the feet, and the terrain and surrounding countryside are spectacular, especially with the regal fall colors. I’ve trimmed down my pack weight recently, including sending my tent home. That sounds more radical than it is- it only means that I’ll need to stay in shelters (usually available every day) or cowboy camp (sleep under the stars). I’ve only had to do the latter rarely, and now with cold days hitting us with regularity (and snow in our Halloween forecast) I won’t want to do it much more.

Me, loving the coll Virgina mornings. Temp for this picture in the 40's, but you don't feel it when hiking.

Me, loving the brisk Virginia mornings. Temp for this picture in the 40’s, but you don’t feel it when hiking.

Typical AT shelter, side view. This one sleeps six...you roll your air mattress and sleeping bag out on the floor and try not to hear other hikers snore!

Typical AT shelter, side view. This one sleeps six…you roll your air mattress and sleeping bag out on the floor and try not to hear other hikers snore!

Same shelter, front view. My pack and sticks by the table.

Same shelter, front view. My pack and sticks by the table.

Another spectacular view of the rolling countryside in Virginia

Another spectacular view of the rolling countryside in Virginia

The AT followed this river for a couple of miles, from about 20 feet above.

The AT followed this river for a couple of miles, from about 20 feet above.

Mileage

We’ve really started putting on the daily miles now- 20 per day is routine and 25 is gradually becoming a norm. The cold weather has lit a fire under all of us to keep moving south!

Hiker Thanksgiving

Swish- fellow hiker since Maine- and her family are hosting a hiker thanksgiving for us all in mid-November and that’s the big buzz on the trail. It looks like a dozen or so of us hikers will converge on her kin to show them what hungry hikers can do to a thanksgiving feast. Wendy is planning on flying out to meet me there, so it should be a great time!

Hiker badass Swish, surrounded by Virginia hills.

Hiker badass Swish, surrounded by Virginia hills. That’s one of the white blazes painted at her feet.

Reading/Music List

I’ve had a couple of questions about what I’ve been reading and/or listening to on the trip. Here’s the list of books I’ve read (or reread) so far:

  • Walden; Henry David Thoreau
  • Call of the Wild; Jack London
  • The Long Walk; Slawomir Rawicz
  • The Inferno; Dan Brown
  • Ishmael; Daniel Quinn
  • Peace Like a River; Leif Anger
  • The Lovely Bones; Alice Sebold
  • Staggerford; Jon Hassler
  • Captains Courageous; Rudyard Kipling

And here are a couple of musical lyrics and quotes that stuck in mind on the trip so far:

  • “My feet is my only carriage, so I’ve got to push on through.” Bob Marley
  • “Travelling in a fried-out Kombi…on a hippy trail, head full of zombie.” Colin Hay
  • “Gonna ride me southbound, all the way to Georgia now, ’till the train run out of track…” Marshall Tucker
  • “Georgia, Georgia, the whole day through, just an old, sweet song keeps Georgia on my mind.” (Ray Charles)
  • “He travels the fastest, who travels alone.” Rudyard Kipling
  • “As for doing good, that is one of the professions which are full. Morover, I have tried it fairly, and, strange as it may seem, am satisfied that it does not agree with my constitution.” Henry David Thoreau
  • “Public opinion is a weak tyrant compared with our own private opinion.” Henry David Thoreau

Thanks again to those of you who’ve commented- I love hearing your input and observations! Enjoy this installment with a few Virginia photos and I’ll try to update again soon! Max.

PA -> MD -> WV -> VA

Greetings from the Waynesboro public library in Waynesboro, VA! As of today, I’ve completed 1327 miles of the AT and have 858 miles left. I’m now over 60% done as reflected in graphical form below.

app-trail-map_60percent

The blue square portrays the portion completed so far

Cold Weather

One of the biggest things on my mind these days has been the (increasing) cold weather. Most recent mornings I’m waking to temps in the 30s. While my sleeping bag keeps me plenty warm at night, getting out of it in the morning is getting harder by the day. I’ve recently swapped in some additional cold weather gear to help me enjoy the last 1-2 months of the hike rather than just ‘enduring’ the cold. Based on my daily mileage estimates I’m on track to complete the entire AT and be back home in Minnesota for Christmas!

Embracing the inner caveman

Starting to embrace my inner caveman

My official halfway photo at the ATC in Harpers Ferry

My official halfway photo at the ATC in Harpers Ferry

MIsty morning leaving Harpers Ferry, WV

MIsty morning leaving Harpers Ferry, WV

Amazing old stone house that is now the Bears Den  hiker shelter

Amazing old stone house that is now the Bears Den hiker shelter

On on a peak in Shenandoah

On on a peak in Shenandoah

Shenandoah
Over the past week or so I’ve had the pleasure of walking the 100 or so miles of the AT that pass through Shenandoah National Park. As luck would have it, I was in the park during the peak of “leafer” season, when people from all over flock to SNP to see the changing of the fall colors. While the mornings have been brisk, the scenery has been spectacular, as reflected in some of my pictures this time. You may also be able to tell that the trail (i.e., the footpath) has become much easier to walk. There are fewer roots and rocks than the New England sections and often times the path is dirt, which is a great relief to the feet.

Amazing Shenandoah 1

Amazing Shenandoah 1

Amazing Shenandoah 2

Amazing Shenandoah 2

Amazing Shenandoah 3

Amazing Shenandoah 3

Park Ranger Sally stopped us and asked us to speak to her group about thru-hiking the AT

Park Ranger Sally stopped us on the trail and asked us to speak to her group about thru-hiking the AT

People
Over the past few weeks I’ve spent a lot of my hike time thinking about all those who have contributed to my hike in one form or another. It starts with my great wife who has been extremely supportive and understanding of my ‘structured midife crisis,’ as well as my kids, other family, friends, neighbors and colleagues cheering me on with every step, sending kind words, packages, etc. My sincere thanks to each of you! I’ve also made some great new acquaintances recently, said goodbye to dear trail friends and happened upon an assortment of hikers, trail angels and other kind souls. See below photos for more details. One recent example is ‘Stash,’ who I’m calling out here in text because I forgot to take a picture with him. Though we had never met, he left a note on my blog to seek him out in Virginia when we got near his town. He graciously picked us up on a moments notice on his day off and shuttled us a long distance to resupply, run errands and return us to the trailhead where we were still able to squeeze in 15 miles of hiking that day, something we could have never done without his help.

Hero's last day of hiking

Hero’s last day of hiking

Hero touching his finish line...congrats on completing your thru-hike!

Hero touching his finish line…congrats on completing your thru-hike!

Hydro and Dirty Bird...a couple of amazingly strong, fast hikers

Hydro and Dirty Bird…a couple of amazingly strong, fast hikers

I met Gabe and his dad Greg on the trail one rainy day

I met Gabe and his dad Greg on the trail one rainy day

Roger- a true trail angel!

Roger- a true trail angel!

..and Kayla, Roger's daughter! Thanks Sweetie!

..and Kayla, Roger’s daughter! Thanks Sweetie!

Appearances
I’ve also had a lot of time for reflection lately. One of the more interesting observations has to do with my appearance. Nowadays, I look (and unfortunately, smell) like a homeless person. In trail towns people usually recognize unshaven, gaunt, malodorous people with backpacks as AT thru-hikers since they deal with us so frequently. But when one ventures beyond such towns to places further off the trail, the first impression categories I fit into are ‘aging hippie’ or ‘homeless derelict.’ Having looked more ‘corporate’ for the past 25+ years, the contrast in how people react to my appearance has been truly entertaining. Hippie types and tatooed motorcycle dudes treat me like a ‘brother;’ shopkeepers and restauraunteurs look with suspicion when I approach; and somewhat inexplicably, old ladies smile sympathetically, as though to say “God bless you, wayward son- I’ll pray for your soul.” Another surprise has been how many people I meet on the trail who assume I’ve always looked this way. “I can’t imagine you without the hair and beard” is something I hear often. I’m not sure what I’ll look like when I return to ‘normal’ life, but regardless, looking this way on the trail is a rich source of personal entertainment. Thanks again for following along! Max

Halfway and Beyond!

This will be a very quick post as I’m waiting for a ride back to the trail. An eventful few weeks: caught the Dukes, passed 1000 miles, passed the halfway point, crossed the PA border into Maryland, crossed the Mason Dixon line, and had my first ‘zero’ (non-hiking day) in almost a month yesterday! Enjoy these few quick pics…more updates later! Max.

Finally caught 'em! Dukes reunion.

Finally caught ’em! Dukes reunion.

Dukes southbounders hitting the 1000 mile mark!

Dukes southbounders hitting the 1000 mile mark!

Mav and me imitating the sign above us...Birdie on the camera

Mav and me imitating the sign above us…Birdie on the camera

Mav attempted this pancake challenge: tried to eat 8 of these massive bad boys...

Mav attempted this pancake challenge: tried to eat 8 of these massive bad boys…

Birdie hiking through an AT cornfield

Birdie hiking through an AT cornfield

Another great view of PA...my favorite state so far on the AT

Another great view of PA…my favorite state so far on the AT

Halfway marker...big milestone!

Halfway marker…big milestone!

Trail magic apples left in this tree...yum!!

Trail magic apples left in this tree…yum!!

Crossed the Mason-Dixon line to arrive in Maryland

Crossed the Mason-Dixon line to arrive in Maryland