Crossing into Vermont has been magical. For example, on August 28th we started the day by saying goodbye to trail angels Short-n-Sweet and Greybeard who hosted nearly a dozen hikers at their home the previous evening in Norwich, sharing with us the story of their son’s thru hike which inspired them to reach out and help hikers. We left their home before sunrise in order to hit our 20+ mile goal for the day. Our first break that morning was the home of the amazing Hart family, who have already provided support to 950 hikers this year alone. As we walked by they rang the bell on their porch and motioned us in for a huge homemade breakfast. The roadway immediately in front of their home runs about 30 feet above a whitewater river. Among hikers there is a tradition to dare each other to jump off the bridge. Egged on by my younger cohorts, I took the leap in my underwear, on a belly full of the Hart breakfast (see video below)! The jump was a gas and the water refreshingly cool. The video was filmed by one of my very good friends from the trail- Hero (from Mississippi)- who then jumped himself.
From there, we spent the day hiking through 20 miles of mountains, forests and meadows, reminding me very much of scenes from the Sound of Music. As we were emerging from the woods to a paved road, trying to decide whether to push another few miles, a truck rolled to a stop and the driver asked me if I had ever heard of ‘the Barn.’ The Barn is a word-of-mouth free hostel in Woodstock, Vermont, hosted for 22 years by Daniel Quinn (trailname: Bad Example). It turns out that the driver of that truck was none other than Dan himself and he invited us all to stay in the loft of his barn. While we pitched in with some light chores, dinner was being prepared for us by trail legend (and Jerry Garcia look-alike) Baltimore Jack. He has hiked the complete AT an amazing 9 times, including thru-hiking 7 consecutive years. It turns out that he and Dan are old friends and he was coincidentally staying with Dan while we were there. Baltimore made us an amazing spaghetti dinner with a huge salad, garlic bread with salami, and for dessert we had homemade pie from the ‘Pie Lady’ who sells home baked goodies and home grown produce next door.
Fast forward to August 30th where we did another 20+ mile day and were treated to ‘trail magic’ 4 times throughout the day, including a food and beverage booth set up on the side of the road by Jen, a bubbly young grad student from California who is out here doing PhD research on the psychology of thru-hikers. Jen’s booth was located at the point where Sobo (southbound) thru hikers pass their 500 mile mark, so it was a great milestone for us to celebrate!
And for me, the icing on the Vermont cake is the place from which I’m making this post. The Green Mountain House– in Manchester Center, Vermont- has a reputation among many hikers as ‘THE’ best hostel on the AT. Jeff the proprietor keeps the place immaculate and as a hiker himself, is very in-tune with hiker amenities. For $25, you get a clean bed, free laundry and showers, free beverages, a free pint of Ben and Jerry’s, free make-your-own breakfast and use of the spotless facilities which include the computer on which I’m posting this update, a great hiker lounge with huge color TV and well-appointed kitchen. No wonder that nearly every hiker I’ve passed going in the other direction has recommended Jeff’s place.
Today is 9/2 and I’ll hit the trail again early tomorrow morning, my daily hiking average now well into the 20 mile range. I’ll cross into Massachusetts in the next 2-3 days and from there the states will start piling up as the terrain levels out. The pictures below are from the past few days…I hope you enjoy!
Hero and Swish in Vermont, in what could be an Austrian meadow.
Baltimore Jack preparing his amazing spaghetti sauce
Grad student Jen (in blue next to me) with her aunt and uncle, providing trail magic and lots of smiles. Swish, SlimJim to my left) and I hit our 500 mile mark right at this spot!
The trail as it overlooks the Rutland, Vermont airport
Another fun suspension bridge
Amazing view from the same suspension bridge
The AT passes right through the Bromley ski resort. Per the sign, the run we hiked down is called ‘Run Around.’ I was just grateful it wasn’t a black diamond!
AT map with a blue square marking (approximately) what I’ve completed so far.”And miles to go before I sleep…”
Congratulations on achieving your lifelong goal of appearing on in your underwear YouTube. Damn hippies!
Geez…long time no speak Billy! Any news yet on 50th reunion? Hope you are well. As for hippies in underwear, yes, I may have reached a personal nirvana…the jump was exhilerating and no enema! Miss you, dude!
Driving home from work tonight, Portland near 50th street, I look up and see a red Ford minivan, sport edition. Oddly enough they were supporters of the Yuenson (spelling?) campaign in 2012. Judge, Jury, Executioner.
We gave it to Art…pbly him and his hippie friends! Go Artie!
It was Art, sporting a clean cut look. Traveling solo.
No news on a reunion.
Last Friday night at the Rosemount VFW Murphy, Neil and I caught a Led Zeppelin cover band. Jinny James and the Hall of Fames. Fantastic show considering the venue. We were even treated to a solid version of Moby Dick. It was 4 kids, but they rocked out. The music was good enough to keep Neil out until 11:00. No cover charge and Murph brought a pocket full of wooden drink nickels.
Word on the street is he cut his hair…apparently I’m now taking up the torch. As for the zep cover band, sounds like fun and anything that keeps Neil out after dark has value. I won’t speculate on what you had to do to get the wooden nickels from murph. What happens at the V…
*Jonny James
Michael. It’s Ricky here… just lettin’ you know that, uh, I’ve thought about this, I feel I have no other options, I’m gona go down to Lahey’s trailer, I’m gonna break in, and I’m basically probably going to kill Mr Lahey, and I’m thinkin’ about killin’ Randy as well, and I’m gonna take the video tape back. I’ve talked to Bubbles about it and he’s probably gonna give me a hand ‘cos we both can’t have this tape floatin’ around, so… anyway, you know, I was kinda countin’ on you to maybe help plan this but if you don’t want to, that’s up to you, just hope you won’t feel guilty when me and Bubbles are in jail and you know you could have prevented a murder. Talk to you later.
2 days to new episodes should one have a hankering and wifi access.
Dylan at the Orpheum 11/4. I will be row 2 center.
Hi Michael! I have enjoyed keeping up with your blog, and love the pictures! Amazing places, and you have lost a lot of weight! WE all miss you, however very excited your able to make this journey! Your one eyed dog friend has been looking for you. Can I send you a package by chance? I know you have been sending yourself stuff so just wanted to see about a little care package? Let me know. We miss you so much! XO
Thanks Heidi! You know me…anything with ginger or licorice will go quickly, ha! My next stop at a post office will be in Pawling, New York and I expect to be there by Saturday as I have a box (from myself) to pick up too. If that’s too soon, let me know and I’ll tell you where my next one will be. And tell that husband of yours not to spook Dylan at the Orpheum!
Ooops…here’s the details: just send it to my name, general delivery, Pawling, New York. If you put a note on the bottom indiciating its for an AT thru-hiker that will help them know too…thanks again!