Fare Thee Well, Virginia

According to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy website, Virginia (the longest state on the AT) contains 550.3 miles of the trail. Sitting in the Damascus, Virginia public library on this morning of March 24th, I am poised to cross the Virginia/Tennessee border tomorrow morning, in 3.3 miles.

Nice...

Nice…

I've been thinking of this for 200 miles

I’ve been thinking about this town walk for 200 miles

As much as I’ve loved the hiking in this great state, I’m glad to see progress, warmer weather and changing trail conditions. Over the past couple of weeks I’ve gone from near total isolation to finally sharing shelters occasionally (twice). Once with a great section hiker named Sunshine, and then a few nights later with Gator, Shitfoot and 0311, a trio of motivated Nobos.

Nacho Libre (left) and the Professor

Nacho Libre (left) and the Professor

I’ve started seeing Nobos since Mount Rogers, including the amazing Nacho Libre, the Professor, OC, Montana and the Hiking Vikings who camped last night at The Place (Methodist hostel) where I am also staying in Damascus, VA.

View through the window screen at the Methodist church hostel, "The Place"

View through my window screen at the Methodist church hostel, “The Place

This town is well-known for Trail Days, the biggest annual event on the AT (in mid-May). Its a good trail stop with home-cooked food options, several great outfitters and lots of hiker-friendly places (read: high degree of olfactory tolerance) to stay.

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Glorious spring day on the ridge above Damascus

Trestle just north of Damascus

Trestle just north of Damascus

Me on the trestle

Me on the trestle…geez I’m gettin’ hairy

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At a trail switchback: my origin path goes up on the right and destination path descends lower left

Perhaps not surprisingly, the uptick in trail encounters has coincided with warmer weather and less snow. The only icy patches I’m seeing now are remote spots in high elevation that get little sun. But for the odd/shortlived April snowstorm I am hoping the worst cold is behind me. The weather report for the next 7 days looks relatively clear and warm with only a couple of cold/rainy days expected during that time.

Virginia mountain side field

Virginia mountainside field

The AT coincides with the best-named trail I've seen: the Virginia Creeper

The AT coincides for some miles with the best-named trail I’ve come across: the Virginia Creeper

Virginia, or the Badlands?

Virginia, or the Badlands?

More Badlands

More Badlands, expecting to see Roy Rogers and Trigger emerge from the underbrush

Sat here and used the rare cel service to get caught up on news from home

I perched on Whitetop Mountain to take advantage of rare cell service and get caught up on news from home

The "Fat-Man Squeeze"

In through the “Fat-Man Squeeze”

Wild pony in Grayson Highland, standing guard over his proud accomplishment

Hippie pony in Grayson Highlands, standing guard over his proud trail accomplishment

Reminds me of "Ponderosa"

It really does feel like Virginia on the Ponderosa

Copious water from snow run off and lots of rain

Copious water from snow run off and lots of rain

Troutdale Church Hostel, a great refuge from the storm. Hitched a ride from a friend of Ishmael, the 71 year old thru-hiker I helped across Rainbow Stream in July.

Troutdale Church Hostel, my refuge from a second consecutive day of cold wind and rain. Hitched a ride from Patti, a friend of Ishmael, the 71 year old thru-hiker I helped across Rainbow Stream way back in July in Maine.

Had the place to myself, the current norm

Had the run of the place, the current norm on a quiet trail

View of Troutdale from the hostel

View of Troutdale from the hostel

The Partnership shelter seems like it could sleep 30 comfortably. The showers in the small room on the right were not working at the time

The beautiful “Partnership” shelter seemed like it could sleep 30 comfortably. The showers in the small room on the right were not working at the time, but it still felt like a Hilton. Note loft window on gable.

Another great Virginia ridgeline

Walking another great Virginia ridge line surrounded by down slopes

Never get enough of train crossings

I just never get enough of train crossings

Sunny day under a foot bridge

Sunny day snack break under a foot bridge

Another swollen river crashing by

Another swollen river tumbles by

A month's-old note from Swish in the shelter log

Months-old note from Swish in the shelter log

Touching memorial aloong the trail just south of Bland, VA

Trailside memorial a mile south of Bland, VA

I think the pictures this time around do fairly well at portraying the changing face of the trail during seasonal transition. Chilly days smudged with greys and dirty winter browns are offset by sudden punches of sky blues and fresh spring foliage greens. The Grayson Highlands area deserves special mention as the only place so far (in 1718 miles) that made me feel like I was in the badlands of the Dakotas or Montana, a sharp contrast against the surrounding rhododendron forests.

Thank you, sincerely, for tuning in again. My next update will likely be from Irwin, Tennessee around the end of March. See you then.

Max

2 thoughts on “Fare Thee Well, Virginia

  1. Spruce

    Max, great meeting you at Thomas Knob. IT was cool for me to reminisce about 2014 with another thru hiker. Good luck heading south!

    1. max Post author

      Spruce! Thanks so much for the great chat, the snickers and jolly ranchers! It was great meeting up with you and I’ll be sure to let Forrester Gump know we met. I’m writing from Hot Springs where I’m zeroing today, and if the library computer speeds up I’ll soon have my blog updated, so check here later today! Best regards and hope to see you on the trail again sometime, brother. Max

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