First Week in the Desert

[If you read my previous post prior to the pictures getting uploaded, feel free to go back and view that post first.]

The last time I was in Tehachapi, California was nearly 40 years ago when I volunteered for a month as a university sophomore with the United Farm Workers Labor Union (remember those nation-wide grape boycotts at all our grocery stores?) where stayed in a bunkhouse at La Paz- Cesar Chavez’s home and the union’s headquarters at the time. As of 2018, that same location is now the Cesar Chavez National Monument and celebrates Chavez’s life as well as the UFW’s work during that time. One distinct memory I have of my stay there was watching the film “Chariots of Fire” in the home of a married couple who were part of the UFW’s full time staff. I also got to experience my first (and only- so far!) train-hopping adventure. I jumped on to a moving freight near La Paz and rode it for quite a while (to Bakersfield, I think?) and then hopped off and hitched back to La Paz. I had been reading Kerouac at the time and it felt like part of the adventure. So did the subsequent hitch I got from a pair of organic farmers with a mountain of dried figs in the back of their pickup that they insisted I help myself to! I look back on those days and realize that the spirit of the wanderer has been with me for a long time.

Today I’m sitting comfortably in the Kern Country Public Library branch in Tehachapi, having just completed my laundry after making quick work of a decent sized stack of pancakes- my ongoing obsession during this hike. I’m staying here with Barbara and Richard, two retired farmers (apple orchards and cider) who’ve lived in this area most of their lives. After they ceased their cider operations, they converted their old cider processing out-building into a “hiker hut” where I’m staying, with a living/sleeping area, kitchen, full bathroom complete with towels, soaps and shampoos, the use of their bicycles and so on. Its like a mini oasis from the desert heat and they are extremely gracious hosts.

My initial foray into desert hiking was back in 2019 in New Mexico when I thru-hiked the Continental Divide Trail. That experience was a shock to my system- the absence of trees (and therefore shade) as well as complete lack of water made for some nervous and unfamiliar days. I eventually got the hang of it, but was apprehensive this time around whether I’d feel the same. As it turns out, I’ve completely enjoyed the California desert scene and though I’m only a week in, its been absolutely beautiful. My pack is heavier by virtue of the extra water that must be carried (this morning I did the final 15 miles of a nearly 30 mile waterless section), but the daytime heat is comfortably followed by cool- but not cold- evenings that are as quite as can be except when sleeping near windfarms. I’ve not been up close to modern windmills before so it came as a surprise that they make a sound similar to aircraft passing overheard. That was my sleep-time white noise last night.

At this point I’ve now completed about 2100 miles of the PCT and have about 550 miles remaining. That’s still a lot of miles to go, but I’m starting to feel like I can see the end of this hike, whew! Fingers crossed that I continue to enjoy the hike, make good progress, stay (relatively) injury-free and eventually tag that Mexican border and heave the big sigh of “done!” Until then, all the best to you and yours and thanks for your ongoing interest in my hikes. Love, Max

PS: Be sure to check out my Youtube channel for my latest video uploads! The latest videos begin with #35.